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The rise of Chinese leather goods brands is reshaping the global soft luxury competitive landscape

Institution
Bernstein
Date
2026-06-17
Authors
Maria Meita, Eric Chen, CFA, Yi-Peng Khoo, CFA, Alix Turner
Company
-
Ticker
-
Industry
Luxury Goods
Rating
-
NeutralLow confidenceThe report believes that Chinese leather goods brands such as Songmont, Qiuzhen, Grotto, Dissona, and Bampo are rising rapidly on the back of value for money, product fit, and cultural storytelling, but their expansion will put greater pressure on affordable luxury brands such as Coach and Longchamp.
AuthorsMaria Meita, Eric Chen, CFA, Yi-Peng Khoo, CFA, Alix Turner
CoverageEurope、Other
Business segmentsLeather Goods、Handbags、Luggage and Bags、Soft Luxury、Affordable Luxury
Research firm divisions/subsidiariesBernstein(Other)

AI summary card

The rise of Chinese leather goods brands is reshaping the global soft luxury competitive landscape

Bernstein points out that Chinese domestic leather goods brands are rapidly gaining share in Tmall's handbag and luggage market, driven not by nationalism but by value for money, product fit, and upgraded brand storytelling.

This report is a thematic study of the global luxury goods industry and does not provide a rating, target price, or expected upside for any single stock.
Chinese leather goods brandsSongmontTmallValue for moneyAffordable luxuryChina-for-ChinaSoft luxury competition
  • Leading Chinese domestic leather goods brands already account for about 18% of Tmall handbag and luggage sales, close to the roughly 19% share of leading overseas brands.
  • Chinese leather goods brands such as Songmont, Qiuzhen, Grotto, Dissona, and Bampo delivered a 2021-2025 sales CAGR of +51%, significantly outperforming the overall category.
  • Growth has been driven mainly by volume expansion, reflecting that consumers are placing greater emphasis on value and product fit after luxury price increases.
  • The rise of domestic brands will mainly squeeze affordable luxury brands such as Coach and Longchamp, while higher-end soft luxury brands such as Hermes, Dior, and Louis Vuitton are relatively more defensive.

Report interpretation

Overview

This report focuses on the rise of Chinese leather goods brands in the domestic market and uses Songmont as a representative case to analyze their impact on the global luxury landscape. The report argues that domestic brands have captured the gap between high-end luxury and mass fashion through accessible price points of CNY1-3k, strong product design, functionality, and cultural storytelling. Their growth comes more from value for money and product-market fit than from pure nationalist consumption preferences.

Core views

The core views are: first, Chinese domestic leather goods brands have become credible competitors in the domestic market, with Tmall share approaching that of leading overseas brands; second, unit growth and hero products have driven high growth, but SKU concentration also brings volatility risk; third, Songmont is upgrading from a 'high-quality Chinese handbag' into a culturally driven brand through Eastern aesthetics, podcasts, flagship stores, and Paris Fashion Week pop-ups; fourth, global brands are responding to localized competition with China-for-China strategies; fifth, competitive pressure mainly falls on affordable luxury players such as Coach and Longchamp, while high-end soft luxury brands remain relatively more resilient due to scale, brand equity, and innovation capabilities.

Analysis framework

The report mainly uses Tmall data on sales, unit volume, ASP, brand share, and SKU concentration, combined with analysis of price bands, brand building, channel experience, and consumer value preferences, to compare the competitive positioning of Chinese domestic leather goods brands and global luxury brands.

Methodology notes

  • Industry competition analysisPrice-band and value-for-money framework

    Use the price ranges of different brands and consumers' sense of value to judge competitive overlap.

    The report compares Chinese leather goods brands with global high-end luxury brands and affordable luxury brands such as Coach and Longchamp, concluding that domestic brands are closer to the affordable luxury price band.

  • Platform data analysisTmall sales, volume, and ASP decomposition

    Break growth down into volume expansion and average selling price improvement.

    Chinese leather goods brands posted a 2021-2025 sales CAGR of about +51%, including volume CAGR of about +37% and ASP CAGR of about +10%, indicating that growth was more volume-driven.

  • Brand-building analysisCultural storytelling and retail experience

    Brand appeal comes not only from price and quality, but also from design distinctiveness, cultural relevance, customer interaction, and store experience.

    Songmont strengthens brand awareness through nature-inspired design, narratives around Eastern aesthetics, podcasts, flagship stores, and overseas pop-up events.

Asset mapping & comparison

Structured mapping from thesis to named assets (strengths, weaknesses, peers, risks).

  • Songmont
    Representative beneficiary of the rise of Chinese leather goods brands
    Strengths
    Leading scale, fast growth, relatively lower SKU concentration, and continued strengthening of cultural storytelling through Eastern aesthetics, podcasts, flagship stores, and international pop-ups.
    Weaknesses
    Still relies on hero products and specific price bands, and consumer acceptance of moving up to higher price bands remains to be proven.
    Comparison
    Compared with Qiuzhen, Grotto, Dissona, and Bampo, Songmont stands out more in sales scale, growth, and brand building.
    Risks
    Moving upscale may weaken its value-for-money advantage, and there is uncertainty around overseas expansion and premiumization execution.
  • Qiuzhen、Grotto、Dissona、Bampo
    Shared beneficiaries among the group of Chinese domestic leather goods brands
    Strengths
    Accessible pricing, high product fit, and rapid volume growth through the Tmall channel.
    Weaknesses
    Smaller brand scale, greater reliance on hero products, and long-term brand equity still needs to be built.
    Comparison
    Overall growth significantly outpaces the handbag and luggage category, but scale remains small compared with leading global luxury brands.
    Risks
    Intensifying competition, shorter SKU life cycles, and channel dependence may affect sustained growth.
  • Coach、Longchamp
    Affordable luxury brands potentially under pressure
    Strengths
    Existing brand recognition, overseas brand endorsement, and mature channel capabilities.
    Weaknesses
    Overlap with Chinese domestic leather goods brands in the accessible price band, with rising differentiation pressure.
    Comparison
    Coach is still growing strongly in China, but domestic brands are competing for consumer attention with stronger value for money and more locally resonant product storytelling.
    Risks
    If they cannot continue to strengthen their value proposition and localized products, they may lose share to domestic brands.
  • Hermes、Dior、Louis Vuitton
    Relatively more defensive high-end soft luxury brands
    Strengths
    Strong global scale, brand equity, creative resources, retail experience, and product innovation capabilities.
    Weaknesses
    Still need to cope with rising value sensitivity among Chinese consumers and higher localization requirements.
    Comparison
    Unlike affordable luxury brands, high-end soft luxury brands are not directly positioned in the core price band of domestic leather goods brands.
    Risks
    If they continue to raise prices aggressively while lacking localization, brand heat and consumer relevance may be weakened.
  • Global luxury brands
    Need to respond to domestic competition through China-for-China strategies
    Strengths
    Strong resources, supply chains, brand heritage, and global marketing capabilities.
    Weaknesses
    HQ-driven models may respond slowly, and products and experiences may not fully fit Chinese consumers.
    Comparison
    Louis Vuitton's The Louis and Adidas' Zhangyuan store in Shanghai are cited in the report as successful localization cases.
    Risks
    If local teams lack sufficient authority or product localization remains superficial, it may be difficult to offset the product-market-fit advantage of domestic brands.

Key data

  • Domestic brand Tmall shareAbout 18%The share of leading Chinese domestic leather goods brands in Tmall handbag and luggage sales, close to about 19% for leading overseas brands.
  • Chinese leather goods brand sales growth+51% CAGRThe 2021-2025 sales CAGR of brands such as Songmont, Qiuzhen, Grotto, Dissona, and Bampo, significantly higher than the overall category at about -1%.
  • Songmont scaleRMB1.3bn LTM salesSongmont's Tmall sales over the last twelve months are roughly equal to the combined total of the next two competitors.
  • Songmont growth rate+59% CAGRSongmont grew faster than the broader group of leading Chinese leather goods brands from 2021 to 2025.
  • Growth driversVolume +37% CAGR, ASP +10% CAGRThe report believes most growth came from volume expansion rather than simple price increases.
  • Core price bandCNY1k-3k accounts for about 80%-90% of salesChinese leather goods brands are concentrated in an accessible price range between high-end luxury and mass fashion.
  • SKU concentrationSongmont top 10 SKUs about 53% of sales, other brands about 60%-70%Reliance on hero products brings growth elasticity but also increases demand volatility risk.
  • Coach Tmall performance2017-2025 +30% CAGR, 2025 +66%Overseas affordable luxury brands can still grow in China with a clear value proposition.

Impact & implications

For investors, the rise of Chinese leather goods brands means that competition in global soft luxury is shifting from pure brand premium toward a broader contest spanning price, design, cultural storytelling, and localized operations. The most directly pressured players are affordable luxury brands with similar price bands; high-end luxury brands still have strong brand defensiveness, but they also need to accelerate localized products, marketing, and customer operations.

Risks

  • Chinese leather goods brands rely heavily on hero SKUs, and any slowdown in hero products could amplify sales volatility.
  • Brand upscaling and price increases may weaken the original value-for-money advantage.
  • Tmall data cannot fully represent offline, private-domain, and overseas market performance.
  • Competition intensity may rise further after global luxury brands accelerate localization.
  • Consumer preferences are not driven solely by nationalism; if value perception or design fit declines, the advantages of domestic brands may weaken quickly.

What to watch

  • Whether Songmont's push into higher-end price bands can deliver simultaneous improvement in sales and brand strength.
  • Changes in Tmall share, volume, ASP, and SKU concentration for Chinese domestic leather goods brands.
  • Whether the CNY1k-3k price band continues to attract 'luxury orphan' consumers.
  • How affordable luxury brands such as Coach and Longchamp respond through product, pricing, and localization.
  • The effectiveness of China-for-China strategies by global brands such as Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels.
  • Whether overseas expansion, store experience, and cultural storytelling by Chinese leather goods brands can translate into long-term brand equity.
Zhejiang ICP No. 2022035445-5
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